Chana Bhatura at Sita Ram Diwan Chand

chana

When conniving Mughal upstart Aurangzeb imprisoned his father, Emperor Shah Jehan, in Agra Fort in 1657, he told him he could choose just one thing to eat every day for the rest of his life. The old man chose chick peas because the prison cook told him he would be able to make something different every day of the year.

Until recently, I would have snorted in disbelief in this  – chick peas?  Synonymous with hairy hippies in bedsits and tubs of slimy supermarket hummous?  Then came ‘Chana  Bhatura’ and I discovered  I could actively crave something involving chick peas.

There are very few deep-fried foods I can resist and I admit what first attracted me to this dish, in places like Evergreen in Green Park and Nathus in Bengali Market, were the magnificent balloon-sized puffed-up ‘bhatura’.  In the early days the  accompanying chana was just a sloppy, sludge-coloured distraction.  I used to dip the bread but I’m ashamed to admit the chick peas often went back to the kitchen barely touched.

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