Gulabi Chikki – Coming Up Roses In 2012

Happy New Year everyone – wishing you all great things in 2012! One  of my wishes for the year ahead is  to spend more time here on my poor neglected blog. Thank you to everyone who wrote to find out if I’d dropped off the face of the earth – I really appreciate all your messages.

The truth is, I wouldn’t let myself do any blogging until I’d made some serious headway with the book.  I spent most of the autumn in Old Delhi, taking part in all the festivals, soaking everything up and filling dozens of notebooks but as soon as Diwali was over I knew I had to just sit down and try to make sense of it all. For a while I seriously doubted I could do it (I still have my doubts actually).  How could I possibly do justice to my beloved Old Delhi? How would I ever get beyond my journalist’s comfort zone of 1500 words?  Was my spine , and sanity, going to survive sitting at a desk for months on end?

Eventually I gave myself a good talking to,   strapped myself to a chair, switched off the internet and vowed to do no blogging or  excursions to Old Delhi until  I’d made significant progress.  It worked, sort of, and  it was a massive relief when  I sent off the first chapter a day before Charlie arrived back for the Christmas holidays.  Baby steps, but still an achievement.

My back’s still killing me but at least I’d earned a trip to Old Delhi. So last Friday, Dean and I left the kids sprawling on the sofa and headed out into the chilly morning. When we  arrived  in Chawri Bazaar  the streets were still thick with cold winter fog so we decided to warm up in Standard Sweets, a few steps from the Metro station.   We ordered two plates of Chhole Puri, a soft and comforting chick pea dish served with piping hot deep fried breads.  The Standard version of  this ubiquitous Delhi  dish is the addition of   potato, paneer and an extremely tasty kofta (a creamy vegetable dumpling).  We parked ourselves at a table to watch the shop and street get ready for the day.  A huge platter of carrot halwa was set on a stove to keep warm while young men in mufflers trooped in bearing trays of freshly made samosas and balushahi. Our breakfast, washed down with sweet spicy chai was delicious – I particularly enjoyed the kofta.  All round, a perfect winter warmer. From Standard Sweets we decided to wander through  Gali Peepal Mahadev where several temples were doing a brisk trade in early morning pujas.  Here, on the left,  we spotted the young owner of Standard Sweets making his offerings

We came across  an embroidery workshop and a dyeing shop

From Ballimaran we headed towards Kinari Bazaar and found a Daulat ki Chaat vendor.

I say ‘found’ but they’re not exactly difficult to come by these days.  Has anyone else noticed the multiplying of  Daulat ki Chaat wallahs in Old Delhi this year?  A happy renaissance to be sure but I’ve noticed some of them, particularly those clustered round Chawri Bazaar metro station,  taste a bit synthetic – cutting corners perhaps? The one we ate in Kinari Bazaar, however, was top notch.  The vendor, a serious young man in a Nehru waistcoat, was almost hidden from view in a side lane.  He took great pains to make sure each plate was just so, waited for us to finish then folded up his stand, put the platter on his head and disappeared into the main bazaar.

Dean stopped for a haircut, which as cruel friends have pointed out, never takes that long

From Kinari Bazaar we turned into Paranthe Wali Gali, not for paranthe but for sweets at Kanwarji which is at the end of the street on the corner with Chandni Chowk. Here I bought the beautiful rose chikki you can see at the top of this post. Chikki are like  nut brittle –  usually  nuts, seeds or puffed rice set in sugar or jaggery.  In the winter months, when the roses are at their best in India, the sweet shops sometimes add rose petals to their chikki.  Delicately rose-flavoured and beautiful to look at, they made the prettiest of new year gifts.

We also popped into the historic Ghantewala sweet shop a few doors up on Chandni Chowk to try their Habshi Halwa, a dark sugary, nutty, spicy sweet which, it turns out, both looks and tastes like Christmas pudding.

Then, just as we were about to head home, we decided to  take a peek in one of the lanes between Chandni Chowk and Kinari Bazaar. And in that little detour  we found  this lovely little place;

this young man with his thriving knife-sharpening business. Can you see the sparks flying from the scissors he’s sharpening on a stone that he’s turning by pedal power?

an old abandoned desk;

and a happy doggy  soaking up the winter sun…

It’s not just the food of Old Delhi  I’ve missed over the past few weeks, I’ve also missed  these endless discoveries.  It doesn’t matter how often I go to Old Delhi there’s always something I haven’t seen before; a doorway, a clock, a shaft of light, someone making something or fixing something, the boy with one blind eye  watching the crazy foreigner have his hair clipped.

Here’s to a year of discovery!

Standard Sweets, Gali Hakim Baqa. From Chawri Bazaar metro station   turn into Chawri Bazaar and take the first little turning on the left and you’ll see the shop on the left.


45 thoughts on “Gulabi Chikki – Coming Up Roses In 2012

  1. Hooray! Lovely to dive into Old Delhi with you Pam- all be it on paper- love the idea of Habshi Halwa, wonder what the origins of that are, maybe a stodgy pudding left by the British…! Happy new Year to you- keep eating and writing x

  2. Happy new year Pamella and thanks for the walk down Old Delhi…did miss your posts but now realised it is for a good cause. perhaps there is a lesson there. here’s to a great 2012

  3. ooh – I took a detour with friends last week somewhere around Lal Bazaar (I think?!) and went along a long street full of temples that ended in Standard Sweets – I must go one morning and try the breakfast! And I agree – SO MANY daulat ki chaat vendors…I was so excited by it when I first found it, but it’s now become an exercise in finding a really good one. Not that I mind that exercise so much….

  4. Hi Tennille – yes, it was seriously good brekkie. Perverse, but I preferred Daulat ki Chaat when it was lesser spotted. Happy New Year xx

  5. Happy new year to you and family Pamela .
    The rose chikki steals the show actually…loved those shafts of light and that carving behind the doggy 🙂
    You have an eye and a taste bud for old Delhi 🙂
    You have to taste Malaiyya of Benaras in this season , I prefer that to Roshan ki chaat though both are almost similar products…I agree spurious, synthetic tasting roshan ki chaat (or even Benaras ki malaiyya in some places) is a big let down..

  6. Pamela, thanks for loving Delhi & being such a wonderful chronicler of the charms it has to offer.
    I’m truly tempted to also walk on the trails you’ve explored;lets see if I get over my native inertia.
    I do hope you continue to live in, enjoy& write about Delhi for a long time.
    A Happy New Year to you & your family

  7. Hi Pamela,
    That’s a lovely post! I lived in Delhi for 6 years during college, but never managed to explore the city during those days. Now that I have become obsessed with food and live in New York, your blog has made me so excited about my annual trips to Delhi. Looking forward to the book!

    Happy New Year!


  8. Happy New Year. Have been folowing your recepies in The Mint but its great to see you again on the blog – welcome Home

  9. So glad your book writing is going well… and happy to see a new post from you!
    Your reward trip around Old Delhi sounds delightful…
    Happy New Year!

  10. Happy New year Pamela! Love all the photos; the food looks delicious…. esp the habshi halwa used to be my fav when visiting Delhi as young girl. Looking fwd to seeing more blog posts in 2012. Love them x

  11. Happy New Year Maunika – looks like it’s going to be a busy year for you – you deserve it – well done!

  12. Happy New Year!

    I have been reading your blog for hours now making notes of all of the edible destinations that I must visit tomorrow when I venture to Old Delhi. Rose Chikki! and Jalebi! and Daulat ki Chaat! Thank you for sharing all of these treats. I know that tomorrow will certainly be delicious.

  13. Yeah Pam, it tastes wonderful. And makes for great gifts specially in this season. In fact a specialty Chikki place just off Bombay does a wide, innovative range too. Will share the name of the outfit, the soonest I can remember. But they do pure Til, Pista, Gulkand, rose petals, saffron and the like.

    Good stuff.

  14. Lovely post, Pamela. You’ve inspired me to go explore old Delhi right away! Couldn’t agree more with your observation- every trip invariably leads to a new experience there!

  15. Great pics and some awesome details. We have been exploring those lanes for years but it never runs out of surprises. Moreover, Old Delhi combines few of the most complex issues that we face today. Tradition, religion, government attitude toward minority, heritage and neglect etc etc. I have been a near-resident for 3 years now and have just started documenting my walks.

  16. Pam,
    If you really-really want to eat GOOD food, you HAVE to go to Surat (Gujarat). There is a saying “Surat nu jaman, kasha nu maran” (food from surat, death in kasha.)
    There is undhiyu. dabeli. locha. Kaman.
    The desserts you have posted from delhi are poor man’s desserts.
    For real rich desserts, you should visit Gujarat. What delhites call halwa is shiro in Gujarat 😦
    . The real halwa is rich, different and delicious in Gujarat.

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