Happy New Year everyone – wishing you all great things in 2012! One of my wishes for the year ahead is to spend more time here on my poor neglected blog. Thank you to everyone who wrote to find out if I’d dropped off the face of the earth – I really appreciate all your messages.
The truth is, I wouldn’t let myself do any blogging until I’d made some serious headway with the book. I spent most of the autumn in Old Delhi, taking part in all the festivals, soaking everything up and filling dozens of notebooks but as soon as Diwali was over I knew I had to just sit down and try to make sense of it all. For a while I seriously doubted I could do it (I still have my doubts actually). How could I possibly do justice to my beloved Old Delhi? How would I ever get beyond my journalist’s comfort zone of 1500 words? Was my spine , and sanity, going to survive sitting at a desk for months on end?
Eventually I gave myself a good talking to, strapped myself to a chair, switched off the internet and vowed to do no blogging or excursions to Old Delhi until I’d made significant progress. It worked, sort of, and it was a massive relief when I sent off the first chapter a day before Charlie arrived back for the Christmas holidays. Baby steps, but still an achievement.
My back’s still killing me but at least I’d earned a trip to Old Delhi. So last Friday, Dean and I left the kids sprawling on the sofa and headed out into the chilly morning. When we arrived in Chawri Bazaar the streets were still thick with cold winter fog so we decided to warm up in Standard Sweets, a few steps from the Metro station. We ordered two plates of Chhole Puri, a soft and comforting chick pea dish served with piping hot deep fried breads. The Standard version of this ubiquitous Delhi dish is the addition of potato, paneer and an extremely tasty kofta (a creamy vegetable dumpling). We parked ourselves at a table to watch the shop and street get ready for the day. A huge platter of carrot halwa was set on a stove to keep warm while young men in mufflers trooped in bearing trays of freshly made samosas and balushahi. Our breakfast, washed down with sweet spicy chai was delicious – I particularly enjoyed the kofta. All round, a perfect winter warmer. From Standard Sweets we decided to wander through Gali Peepal Mahadev where several temples were doing a brisk trade in early morning pujas. Here, on the left, we spotted the young owner of Standard Sweets making his offerings
We came across an embroidery workshop and a dyeing shop
From Ballimaran we headed towards Kinari Bazaar and found a Daulat ki Chaat vendor.
I say ‘found’ but they’re not exactly difficult to come by these days. Has anyone else noticed the multiplying of Daulat ki Chaat wallahs in Old Delhi this year? A happy renaissance to be sure but I’ve noticed some of them, particularly those clustered round Chawri Bazaar metro station, taste a bit synthetic – cutting corners perhaps? The one we ate in Kinari Bazaar, however, was top notch. The vendor, a serious young man in a Nehru waistcoat, was almost hidden from view in a side lane. He took great pains to make sure each plate was just so, waited for us to finish then folded up his stand, put the platter on his head and disappeared into the main bazaar.
Dean stopped for a haircut, which as cruel friends have pointed out, never takes that long
From Kinari Bazaar we turned into Paranthe Wali Gali, not for paranthe but for sweets at Kanwarji which is at the end of the street on the corner with Chandni Chowk. Here I bought the beautiful rose chikki you can see at the top of this post. Chikki are like nut brittle – usually nuts, seeds or puffed rice set in sugar or jaggery. In the winter months, when the roses are at their best in India, the sweet shops sometimes add rose petals to their chikki. Delicately rose-flavoured and beautiful to look at, they made the prettiest of new year gifts.
We also popped into the historic Ghantewala sweet shop a few doors up on Chandni Chowk to try their Habshi Halwa, a dark sugary, nutty, spicy sweet which, it turns out, both looks and tastes like Christmas pudding.
Then, just as we were about to head home, we decided to take a peek in one of the lanes between Chandni Chowk and Kinari Bazaar. And in that little detour we found this lovely little place;
this young man with his thriving knife-sharpening business. Can you see the sparks flying from the scissors he’s sharpening on a stone that he’s turning by pedal power?
an old abandoned desk;
and a happy doggy soaking up the winter sun…
It’s not just the food of Old Delhi I’ve missed over the past few weeks, I’ve also missed these endless discoveries. It doesn’t matter how often I go to Old Delhi there’s always something I haven’t seen before; a doorway, a clock, a shaft of light, someone making something or fixing something, the boy with one blind eye watching the crazy foreigner have his hair clipped.
Here’s to a year of discovery!
Standard Sweets, Gali Hakim Baqa. From Chawri Bazaar metro station turn into Chawri Bazaar and take the first little turning on the left and you’ll see the shop on the left.