Monsoon Breakfast in Sitaram Bazaar

Breakfast time at Ram Swaroop

Well folks it’s been a while! I seem to have been so busy since we got back from the mountains that I just haven’t been able to apply myself to the serious business of street food.

Good to see that some things never change, though – like my fondness for the Hipstamatic app on my iphone (as per above photo).  Is it just me or is it really cool?

Something else that never changes is the Eating Out in Delhi gang’s dedication to gorging in the gullies. And certainly no-one could ever call us  fair weather foodies.  This was the scene when when 15 of us stepped out of Chawri Bazaar metro station last Sunday.  By the way, as of last Friday I now have a metro station on my doorstep with a direct line into Old Delhi. Top Kebabs and Kheer now minutes away at all times!

This year’s monsoon is truly never-ending and I’m Scottish – I have no romantic attachment to rain!

We were instantly drenched and wading through pond-sized puddles but  we soon met a man who made it all worthwhile.  We’d arrived, for once, with no particular plan in mind but decided to check out the breakfast fare in Sitaram Bazaar.  We asked around for recommendations and were pointed in the direction of Ram Swaroop.

This is Anil Kumar, current owner of Ram Swaroop,  named after his father, a shop which has been  serving up mean breakfasts in the old city for over 70 years.   In front of him in the picture is a pile of Nagori – crispy fried poori made from semolina, white flour and ghee.  This is served with a  warm, not too sweet, not too sickly semolina halwa, to the left of the picture.     We also ordered plates of Bedmi Aloo; both dishes were exceptional and complemented each other fabulously.  The savoury potato, cooked in its skin, laced with coriander, cumin, chilli powder and hing with its perfect bedmi for dunking and scooping; then the crumbling crispness of the nagori and soothing sweetness of the halwa.   Now that I’m only 20 minutes away Mr Kumar is going to be seeing a lot of me in the coming months.

Mr Kumar himself was a gent, even sharing the recipe for his sensational nagori.  The dough is made of 2 parts sooji (semolina) to one part maida  (white flour).  For every 1kg of dough, add 200g of ghee.  Then fry to melting crispness.

I was longing to eat the whole thing all over again almost as soon as I’d devoured it.  Always a good sign but on this occasion we had more breakfasts to try…….but that will have to be another post.

Before you go, though,  look at these two….

Aren’t they gorgeous?  We spotted them outside Chaina Ram sweet shop in the Fatehpuri area.  The rain was lashing down but they were oblivious as they devoured a crumbled laddoo – a  moreish golf ball-sized sweet made from besan or semolina.

Ram Swaroop, Sitaram Bazaar

Halwa Nagori, Rs 5 per plate

Bedmi Aloo, Rs 8 per plate


20 thoughts on “Monsoon Breakfast in Sitaram Bazaar

  1. Hi Pamela..I have never had Nagori before but your delicious description is making me hungry!Lovely post and looking forward to more on the Delhi’s delicious street food!

  2. Glad you’re back Pamela…with the Metro now able to whiz me, too, straight into Old Delhi, I need as many of your tips as I can get for street food excursions!

  3. You are back , believe me i have been missing you Pamella.

    I can imagine it must have been a beautiful experience with the breakfast after braving the puddles. This particular season of rain has busted all the romantic sentiments about rain and all Dehliites are miffed with it i am sure.

    Nagori n halwa sounds great and if it is so dirt cheap i wonder how do they manage it ….

    post the next episode soon… loved the younger child in the pic who is ready to lick his fingers..

  4. Its so So SO gr8 to be readin ur posts once again 🙂
    Delhi-06..Its definitely a FAB place..To visit..n more so for the Foodies 😉
    N i too Love the Nangori-Halwa..Its toooooo good..The odd but delightful combination of Crispy Nangoris with Sweet Halwa n Spicy Aloo Sabzi
    Hey..Thanx for givin me this new place for this awesome Delhi-06 food stuff
    I ll give you another one.. Check out Shyam Sweets at Chawri Bazaar, in front of the lane to Nai Sadak
    I believe they make the BEST Bedmi Aloo n Nangori Halwa (atleast till nw;)
    Oh..Bt you gotta be real early..I wasnt able to get my hands on this stuff of their’s once wen i reached there arnd 11 on a weekday 😦

  5. Oops..I was skeptical n so jz Confirmed..You ve already been to Shyam Sweets!!
    So stupid of me tellin YOU places for gr8 food 😀

  6. Pamela,
    The other day I was wondering what is missing in my cyber being.
    Today it dawned that it were your mmmmm delicious posts.
    I am an avid foodie, please keep posting. And thanks for your posts
    narender jain

  7. Hi Narender – Thank you so much I’ve been really useless the last few weeks – I’ll try not to let it slip again!

  8. Hi Abhishek – we also went to Shyam Sweets after Ram Swaroop and I think I preferred the Ram Swaroop bedmi aloo. Although it might have been because I was soaked, famished and it was the firs mouthful of the day

  9. Hi Sangeeta – I’ve really been missing it too – it’s funny how crucial your blog becomes to your well-being. I feel very out of sorts when there’s too long between posts. Hope you’re well and that we’ll meet up for that jalebi session soon! Px

  10. Hi Madhuli – nagori was new to me, and several others too, but I have a feeling it’s going to be a regular from now on!

  11. Zeevie – keep an eye on the EOiD Delhi calendar – sign up for the mailing list on the website – see you soon

  12. You remind me and make me nostalgic about the years I spent in Delhi…Do try the kebabs and other street foods in Old Delhi. Will look forward to coming back to your Blog. (Arrived from Finely Chopped).

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s