Well folks it’s been a while! I seem to have been so busy since we got back from the mountains that I just haven’t been able to apply myself to the serious business of street food.
Good to see that some things never change, though – like my fondness for the Hipstamatic app on my iphone (as per above photo). Is it just me or is it really cool?
Something else that never changes is the Eating Out in Delhi gang’s dedication to gorging in the gullies. And certainly no-one could ever call us fair weather foodies. This was the scene when when 15 of us stepped out of Chawri Bazaar metro station last Sunday. By the way, as of last Friday I now have a metro station on my doorstep with a direct line into Old Delhi. Top Kebabs and Kheer now minutes away at all times!
This year’s monsoon is truly never-ending and I’m Scottish – I have no romantic attachment to rain!
We were instantly drenched and wading through pond-sized puddles but we soon met a man who made it all worthwhile. We’d arrived, for once, with no particular plan in mind but decided to check out the breakfast fare in Sitaram Bazaar. We asked around for recommendations and were pointed in the direction of Ram Swaroop.
This is Anil Kumar, current owner of Ram Swaroop, named after his father, a shop which has been serving up mean breakfasts in the old city for over 70 years. In front of him in the picture is a pile of Nagori – crispy fried poori made from semolina, white flour and ghee. This is served with a warm, not too sweet, not too sickly semolina halwa, to the left of the picture. We also ordered plates of Bedmi Aloo; both dishes were exceptional and complemented each other fabulously. The savoury potato, cooked in its skin, laced with coriander, cumin, chilli powder and hing with its perfect bedmi for dunking and scooping; then the crumbling crispness of the nagori and soothing sweetness of the halwa. Now that I’m only 20 minutes away Mr Kumar is going to be seeing a lot of me in the coming months.
Mr Kumar himself was a gent, even sharing the recipe for his sensational nagori. The dough is made of 2 parts sooji (semolina) to one part maida (white flour). For every 1kg of dough, add 200g of ghee. Then fry to melting crispness.
I was longing to eat the whole thing all over again almost as soon as I’d devoured it. Always a good sign but on this occasion we had more breakfasts to try…….but that will have to be another post.
Before you go, though, look at these two….
Aren’t they gorgeous? We spotted them outside Chaina Ram sweet shop in the Fatehpuri area. The rain was lashing down but they were oblivious as they devoured a crumbled laddoo – a moreish golf ball-sized sweet made from besan or semolina.
Ram Swaroop, Sitaram Bazaar
Halwa Nagori, Rs 5 per plate
Bedmi Aloo, Rs 8 per plate