Making Sidu in Kullu Valley


Sidu-a speciality of Kullu Valley

Well, we’re back in Delhi – school has started (although probably only a matter of time before Swine Flu closes it down again) and work is piling up, but my food brain, which is pretty much the lion’s share, is still in Kullu Valley.

I really meant to be fiendishly blogging throughout our month in the hills but there just wasn’t enough Broadband to go round.  So you’ll just have to bear with me while I catch up with myself.

Uma and Poonam making Sidu

Uma and Poonam making Sidu

Today I’m remembering a wonderful afternoon a couple of weeks ago when our landlord Chaman’s wife Uma and daughter-in-law Poonam showed me how to make a local speciality called Sidu. One of the joys of being invited into the Thakurs’  cosy wood-panelled kitchen was seeing a traditional extended family up close.  As Uma and Poonam worked away companionably, Chaman’s elderly mother cooed over Poonam’s young baby in another room – a world away from the histrionics of the ‘Saas-Bahu’ TV soaps!   It made me think back to when I was a new mum and a long way from any family help – most days, getting dinner on the table used to be my own personal tipping point – the idea of conducting a two-hour masterclass in yeast cookery……well, it doesn’t bear thinking about!

The 'Shil' grinding stone

The 'Shil' grinding stone

This is a recipe that requires a few simple ingredients, a fair bit of time and patience – I imagine many family problems are set to rights during sidu-making afternoons – and, according to Chaman, a whopping great ‘Shil’ stone to grind the spices. Electric grinders just don’t cut it apparently.

I’m sure Sidu is one of those dishes that’s different in every family but in the Thakur household in the village of Batahar, it’s a steamed Cornish Pasty-shaped dumpling stuffed with a spicy poppy seed paste.  It reminds me of the dumplings we make for stews in the long winter months back home. It was delicious piping hot, drenched in ghee and dipped in the homemade apple chutney but really came into its own later in the evening when we used it to mop up the sauce from the Rara Chicken and Paneer.

This is the type of cooking (my favourite) which is passed down through families and is made instinctively so it really isn’t in the spirit of things to provide very precise quantities, but it goes something like this:

Because the Sidu dough is yeast-based, it has to be prepared a couple of hours before you need it.   To 2kg of plain flour add 2 teaspoons of dried yeast and enough warm water to make a soft dough.   Knead well for about 10 minutes then leave, covered, to double in size for a couple of hours in a warm place.

The stuffing ingredients are all given a good workout on the ‘Shil’: Chaman estimated one half kg of poppy seeds, 2 garlic cloves, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 10-20 green chillies, salt, fresh coriander and mint to taste.

The gentle art of Sidu-making

The gentle art of Sidu-making

Uma and poonam made the next bit look easy, rolling, stuffing and shaping each sidu in seconds.  For the rest of us,it might take a bit of practice. When the dough is ready, break off small balls, dip them in flour and roll out to the thickness of a 5 rupee coin.  Then  spread 1 tablespoon of the poppy seed paste over the centre of the dough circle, leaving about 1 cm at the edge.  Fold the dough in half  fold the edge back over on itself then pinch the edges to firmly seal.   The Sidu are then placed   in a steamer and cooked for 10-15 minutes.

Sidu can be eaten in the place of bread or on it’s own with Kullu Valley apple chutney – I haven’t yet tried this at home but the Thakur version is made up of tomato, onion, apple, mint, fresh coriander and green chillies.  And for this Chaman does allow an electric grinder to be used!

Steaming Sidu

Steaming Sidu


14 thoughts on “Making Sidu in Kullu Valley

  1. this is so tempting …n it’s new for me.

    i love anything with poppy seeds but the poppy seeds are very costly n this requires half a kilo…..woo…
    in Uttar pradesh a dumpling is made the same way, but the dough n the stuffing both are different…..which is called a pitha…

  2. Half kilo of poppy seeds… like those parsi recipes that start with “yolks of a 100 eggs…!” These resemble stuffed pastries from somewhere in Europe (Scotland ?) I saw on Discovery Food and Living…

    I love to make that scrimpy-edge to similar looking, but sweet, gunjiyas! These would be the healthier option. Much healthier.

  3. @Anita – I know, I hope something wasn’t lost in translation – but it certainly looked like a lot of poppy seed! The other mystery was where they got the poppy seed – it’s illegal in Himachal apparently!

  4. While travelling with family in the hills around Shimla , actually at leatr 150 kms away, we too were specially treated to a dish of sweet Siddus!ofcourse dipped in plenty of ghee! much to my and my friends delight and much to the horror of three little girls who thought thier mothers had turned bonkers eating Siddus like there were getting out of style. So good to hear , someone else also enjoyed them! Bina Roy

  5. Bina – thanks for your comment – the Siddus were completely new to me – you need to be absolutely ravenous to do them justice!

  6. I have tasted another variation in Kinnaur during winter where minced fat is used inside which helps to keep the body warm.


  7. The Himachali Dish SIDU is one of the best and nutritional . The Bread which is available in the market is harmful due to its result of constipation . This SIDU is good for health if there is the balance of spices . Its so easy to cook and simple sidu without stuffing and spices can also be made and can be use as Chapati (Roti).
    Lalit Sharma
    Shankru Building Totu Shimla HP

  8. Thanks for the recipe, have been looking for this since years,
    Sidus are one of the healthiest food i have ever eaten, easily digestible ( surprisingly).

  9. If you talk of Siddu and never tasted RAJNI’s SIDDUs with or without ghee you missed alot about siddus. You can see the chaos around her stall in INTERNATIONAL SHIVRATRY FESTIVAL OF DISTT MANDI IN HIMACHAL PRADESH>

  10. Sidus is one of the delicacies of HP…its so delicious and at the same time very healthy…my mom prepares it and i just love to eat them…also instead of poppy seeds you can use soyabean paste. Sidus made with soyabean paste are more soft and very delicious…Sidus are a must try for everyone…


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